Multifarious 2017 Mosels, Part 1: Winningen to Wehlen (Jan 2020)

Pear and cherry preserves significantly marked by the piquancy of seeds and pits join tingling pineapple and zesty candied grapefruit peel on a penetrating nose and a creamy, buoyant palate. A chiffon-like sense of delicacy and airiness is uncannily allied to intense flavor concentration. Hints of caramel apple and white raisin add to what becomes a near-kaleidoscopic display that doesn’t omit crystalline stony nuances. Adept deployment of fresh fruit juiciness and subtle bitterness serves to balance out the sweetness and richness on a finish of terrific vibrancy and sheer persistence. (On first acquaintance, palpable extract was allied to some opacity, but when I re-tasted this wine two months after bottling, a marvelous evolution had taken place.)