Rheinhessen Riesling 2016: The Triumph of Subtlety (May 2018)

Fresh apple and lime are suffused with chalky crushed stone on a forceful nose and a firm, brightly juicy palate. This finishes with implacable, vibratory grip and features a mouthwatering, crustacean-like alliance of sweet-saline animal and mineral elements, but along with that come chalk, crushed stone, peat and ash. Nor does this multifacetedly mineral libation stint on citric refreshment. Like last year’s Von der Fels, it issues exclusively from vines of some 30 or more years of age, thereby perpetuating a short supply in comparison with the volume of most Von der Fels bottlings prior to 2015. (The vineyard sources for this bottling range across all of Keller’s top sites, though Kirchspiel, Hubacker and Abtserde combined make up close to 90% of its volume.)