Valpolicella & Soave: The Times, They Are A Changin’ (Feb 2021)

The 2011 Harlequin is dark and intense yet displays a dazzling freshness that frames the expression perfectly. Like opening a fresh jar of blackberry preserves in the middle of a pine forest amidst a field of wild herbs: this is the vision brought about while taking in the bouquet. It’s velvety and full-bodied, contrasted by juicy acids and cooling mintiness, as a wave of ripe wild berries coats all that it touches in spice and tactile mineral tones. Fine tannins linger throughout the long finale, yet the structure here is welcoming, and in fact, the Harlequin is deceptively drinkable and vibrant. You could easily cellar it for a decade, but it’s already so enjoyable today. This is pure decadence. The Harlequin is another experimental blending of a large list of varieties, most of which are red. The grapes are whole-cluster fermented for 30 days using ambient yeast, after which the wine matures through two passes of new French barriques – in other words, 200% new wood.