A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Bonnes-Mares from de Vogüé is compact and powerful on the nose, with blacker fruit than the preceding two Clos Vougeots. There is a touch of cola and cough candy here, though they feel incongruous. The palate is medium-bodied, not quite as muscular as other wines from de Vogüé from this period, with slightly furry tannins and a twang of black olive on the finish. Enjoyable, though not in the league of the recent releases from Lupatelli. This should continue to mature over the next decade .Tasted at the 05/15 Burgundy dinner in The Good Earth.