Wines from Italy’s Volcanic Arc: Campania (Jan 2022)

An intense burst of medicinal cherries and dried herbs gives way to smoke and hints of white pepper as the 2017 Aglianico Eremo San Quirico opens in the glass. This settles with time, showing more black fruit and dusty florals. It’s silky and weighty in feel, almost glycerol-like, in fact, with a dense wave of black currants laced with exotic spices offset by nuances of sour citrus. Inner rose and notes of dark chocolate linger long, as this tapers off lightly structured yet energetic. The Eremo San Quirico is an unabashedly large-scaled wine, yet it maintains admirable balance, especially from the 2017 vintage. That said, give it some time in a decanter to allow the aromatics to fully blossom.