Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Cheval Blanc goes through phases. I have seen brilliant bottles and others that were slightly underwhelming. This is a fine example, although blind it clearly does not possess the sheer grandeur of the ’82 Lafleur, and is slightly more savoury thanks to the Cabernet Franc, with hints of meat juice and terracotta. Very expressive. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and wonderful structure, not the weight of the aforementioned Pomerol, though glossy and ripe, with veins of blue fruit emerging on the finish. Gorgeous. Tasted single blind at the 1982 dinner at Cornus in London.