New Zealand Reds: Treading Lightly (Apr 2022)

The richly fragrant and densely concentrated 2019 Syrah Le Sol offers complex layers of flavors, from smoky bacon to festive spices, violets to cherry cake; the intensity of flavor and focused core point to low-yielding, high-quality fruit. There’s an abundance of serious tannins surrounding the core, and they’re resolved and very fine. It’s pleasing to see a more integrated use of new oak under new winemaker Julian Grounds, allowing the ripe fruit and gravelly site to speak, rather than a French forest. The next thing on the agenda? Please reduce the weight of the bottle. If I want to weight-train, I’ll go to the gym.