Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 60/40 blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon; 13.6% alcohol; pH 3.78; 81 IPT; 50% new oak) Inky black. Perfumed, classic Pauillac scents of blackcurrant, cedar and black pepper, with hints of minerals and sour red cherry. A bit rigid on entry, with mid-palate flavors of coffee and dark plum leading to a spicy, chocolatey, merlot-dominated finish. Fairly full-bodied and nicely balanced wine with very smooth tannins and a trace of finishing heat. This is an extremely good Pibran-not surprising perhaps, given the estate’s location on the same geological outcropping as Pontet-Canet and d’Armailhac. Technical director Jean-Rene Matignon told me that the ’09 Pibran is particularly loaded with merlot grown on limestone soil, which accounts for its greater-than-usual power and structure. Though it lacks the voluptuous flesh and complexity of a top first or second growth, I can’t even begin to think of a similarly outstanding Pibran at the same stage of its development.