Germany 1999: Generous to a Fault (Jan 2001)

Aromas of black raspberry, cassis and vanilla rise from the glass. This doesn’t so much attack as slide onto the palate but, like most of Donnhoff ’99s, the wine preserves a core of acidity and an electric sense of dynamism that you’ll have to search hard to find this year at other addresses. There is a liqueur-like sense of black fruits and wonderful richness, yet great delicacy of fruit, flowers and minerals comes through in the finish, along with a slight tartness of fruit skin that is vivid and arresting. 2 stars.