Germany 2001: Golden October? (Nov 2002)

Blackcurrant, honey, woodsmoke and brown spices in a multifaceted, site-typical bouquet. Rich and sultry in the mouth, piling on complexities of citrus and herbs, then back to a finishing alternation of spicy fruit and smoky minerality, oscillating until one no longer knows where one leaves off and the other begins. 2 stars.