The Saar’s Deliciously Diverse 2017s (Oct 2019)

Chervil, fennel and oregano are accompanied on the nose by suggestions of white peach that are – in a departure from several other Van Volxem 2017s – at least as much about the flesh of the fruit as about its pit. The feel is subtly silken; there is a welcome generosity of fruit juiciness; and the buoyant finish – at just 12% alcohol – is admirably transparent to a shimmering wealth of herbal, stony, saline and smoky nuances. I don’t disagree with some of my German counterparts who have pointed out that this is a more approachable and agreeable Grosses Gewächs than several of its immediate siblings. I just don’t agree with them that these are grounds for downgrading!