Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru offers a super-intriguing mix of floral notes, citrus, almond, mint and white pepper. Lifted and precise with striking translucency, the Montée is really expressive today. Because of the lower yields in this vintage, 2017 was done entirely in oak. It is unquestionably a very fine wine, but it lacks that extra touch of purity that in top years can elevate wines from this site even more.