Saar & Ruwer: Beauties Despite a Bumpy 2016 (Mar 2018)

This represents a thousand-liter lot sourced from 40-year old vines in the original Scharzberg (the traditionally highly-rated vineyard – part of today’s Einzellage Scharzhofberg – that had the misfortune of its name being cooped for a Grosslage). “In years when heat and drought are issues,” insists von Kunow, “the Scharzberg can perform even better than the original Scharzhofberg.” The fermentation was in cask but thereafter the wine was raised in tank. There is a bit of a post-fermentative stink on the nose, but behind that are attractive scents of white peach and marjoram set-off by wet stone. There is a certain sense of looseness to the impression on a silken-textured palate, but that comes off as an attraction when combined with the generous primary juiciness and sense of delicacy (at just 10.5% alcohol) on display here. The finish soothes but also stimulates in its hints of nippy cress and smoky marjoram as well as crystalline stony impingement.