Cellar Favorite: 1961 & 2019 Smith Haut Lafitte

The 2019 Smith Haut Lafitte is one of the Cathiards’ greatest triumphs in recent years. It is noticeably deep in colour. The aromatics burst from the glass—blackberry and flecks of blueberry, a veil of dark chocolate that emerges with time. It shows much less red fruit than a bottle in 2023 exhibited, instead more similar to a bottle I encountered in 2021. This is still on the oaky side, telegraphing that it’s in for the long haul. The palate is structured and exerts insistent grip, though simultaneously feels precise and focused as it reveals layers of black fruit tinged with black olive and rosemary. Again, the 2019 is certainly on the youthful side, bright and quite grippy. I would cellar bottles another four to five years to appreciate what will be a Smith Haut Lafitte in full flight. Outstanding.