Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1994 La Mission Haut-Brion is the dark horse of the decade and may well surpass modest expectations. The bouquet has opened up in recent years to offer appealing tobacco- and cedar-infused black fruit, demonstrating more vigor than any vintage since the late 1980s. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins and predominantly black fruit, again laced with tobacco and cedar, and it conveys a sense of correctness. A classic Pessac-Léognan without flair, yet somehow that forms part of its charm. Tasted over lunch at La Trompette in London.