Cabernet Franc: The Dark Days Are Over (Oct 2021)

This half-hectare plot on a bedrock of limestone was planted in 1974 by Bertrand Sourdais’ father, so the Chinon La Croix Boisée is definitely an older-vines wine. In the 2015, a balsamic note leads the way before the cedar spice and wood smoke of well-heeled oak, plum and red cherry kick in on the palate. It’s round but medium-bodied at most, with fine acidity that provides bright freshness. The tannins are rounded and have a sense of ease, coating the palate with an appetizingly sticky sensation and a chalky texture. Shedding its primary fruit, this is starting to develop its first stage of maturity and settle into its own skin. Can be enjoyed now but with its buoyant acidity and fine tannins, it will reward another 5­–10 years in bottle (and beyond).