Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1975 Yquem vies with the 1976 for supremacy. It was picked over three tries and finished not until 17 November, a small crop of rich berries. At 45-years of age it has lost none of its potency. It bursts from the glass with quince, Tokaji Azsú, Clementines and a hint of stem ginger, all beautifully defined. The palate is nicely-balanced with a fine bead of acidity cutting a swathe through the layers of botrytised fruit. Light saffron and white mushroom notes intermingle with chamomile towards the finish that fans out beautifully. This remains a magnificent Yquem. Tasted at La Trompette in London.