A Bond Extravaganza (Jun 2017)

Saturated dark red with ruby tones. The first one of these vintages to show a distinct dried-berry element on the nose, with its dark berry, plum, tobacco and licorice aromas displaying a slightly pruney aspect. Fat, tactile and rich but perhaps a bit overripe (the pH here is a solid 4.0); creamy and sweet but lacks real definition. This big, rather chunky wine could use a bit more restraint and class. Finishes with chewy, drying tannins and very good length. Ten years ago this wine struck me as sappier and less roasted than the 2001, but today it’s the ’01 that’s singing.