Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(100% merlot; from a crop level of 34 hectoliters per hectare; pH 3.70; 13.5% alcohol; harvested on September 22 and 25) Deep ruby-red. Perfumed, expressive aromas of cassis, blackberry liqueur and minerals lack the sheer decadent opulence of some recent vintages. Then wonderfully clean and precise, with flavors of blackberry and plum complicated by hints of Oriental spices, bitter chocolate and minerals. Firmer than usual but still silky-smooth owing to perfectly ripe tannins. Finishes long and vibrant, with a lingering note of creamy blackberry. Lucky Le Pin collectors will likely find this vintage to be more refined but a shade less opulent than usual. It reminded me a little of the 1990, and it should age just as well.