Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(90% merlot and 10% cabernet sauvignon; 14.3% alcohol; 31 hectoliters per hectare; roughly 75% of the total production went into the grand vin): Inky purple. Ripe aromas of cassis, stewed plum, dark cocoa, coffee and fresh herbs on the showy nose. On the palate, more ripe dark fruit and chocolate flavors are complicated by vanilla and coffee notes. This very powerful wine comes across as rich and velvety, and finishes with a trace of alcoholic heat. It will be appreciated more by fans of high-pH, internationally styled wines than by Bordeaux classicists.