Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(77% cabernet sauvignon, 21% merlot and 2% cabernet franc; 60% new oak; 13.2% alcohol) Deep inky-purple. Knockout aromas of smoky plum, chocolate-coated blackcurrant, balsamic vinegar and aromatic herbs. Suave, sweet and fine-grained, with creamy-rich cassis, smoke and sweet spice flavors given definition by firm acidity. Finishes with subtly powerful, building length and fully ripe tannins. This strikes me as the best Leoville Barton in years, a really mesmerizing wine that’s already remarkably pliant and accessible but also has a great future ahead of it. Drink from 2018 through 2040.