Don’t Read Between the Lines (Apr 2012)

Medium red. Slightly high-toned perfume of raspberry, mint and blood orange. Concentrated, vinous and firm, with excellent energy and a medicinal reserve to the nicely delineated red berry and mineral flavors. Stands out more for its juiciness than its fat, but there’s plenty of texture here. Finishes brisk, firm and powerful, with enticing sweetness and complex saline soil tones. My bottle was still remarkably fresh after five days in the refrigerator. Winemaker Jacques Lardiere noted last year that he clearly preferred the Cote de Nuits in 2009, but this wine is a standout. (Top Burgundies cost a bloody fortune these days, assuming you can find them in the first place, but this very fresh 2009 delivers excellent quality for its price.)