In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1966 Latour was similar to previous bottles. Masculine and obstreperous, the 1966 is aloof at first. It doesn’t want to get to know you. Then it reveals gorgeous tobacco and pencil shaving notes that an only come from Pauillac. This example is more understated than others, and reluctantly unfolds in the glass. The palate is very well balanced with dry and firm tannins. The acidity is well judged and lends edge to a trenchantly conservative Latour that on this occasion begrudges doling out as much fruit as the 1962 Latour. Yet both the precision and backbone on the finish are outstanding and its unapologetic aloofness and “superiority complex” is utterly aborting. Though the winery had undergone a complete refit between vintages, there are stylistic similarities between the 1966 and the 1961, though the latter is endowed with more persistence and depth. Perhaps now approaching the end of its drinking plateau, I suspect larger formats of the 1966 will be the ones to hunt for. Tasted at the International Business & Wine Latour dinner at Ten Trinity.