Vinous Table: Burgundy Christmas Dinner (Mar 2022)

The 2000 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru is far better than the 1998, an ethereal wine that transcends the growing season. It has a stunning nose of mineral-saturated black fruit, evoking a sense of transparency that is absent on the 1998. It’s just pure unadulterated Pinoté. The palate has a slightly ferrous entry, a little earthiness, fine structure and just the right amount of sapidity on the finish. This long and tender Malconsorts is à point. Its current market price brings a tear to my eye when I think how much of this wine I guzzled back in the day.