Looking Back to Look Forward: Back Vintage Brunello (Jan 2022)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille reminds me of walking into a bakery at daybreak, as all of the aromas of fresh breads and pastries slowly rise, blending in a mix of confectioner’s spices and, behind it all, a core of tart raspberry preserve that would be used for the center of the day’s Linzer tarts. Here I’m finding soft, fleshy textures, nicely lifted by a core of brisk acids, with mineral-tinged black fruits and florals that amass toward the close. While the 2004 doesn’t have the follow-through you’d expect from its bouquet, it tapers off lightly structured and long, with inner rose tones that linger on.