Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2004 Gruaud Larose is a vintage that I have not tasted since 2011. This example, from a half-bottle, shows a little under-ripeness compared to vintages of similar age, but the aromatics are redeemed by their freshness. Black fruit intermingle with tobacco and tar, just a hint of hickory and clove loitering in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with quite “solid” tannin on the entry. Like many 2004s there is a foursquare, conservative element to this Gruaud Larose, but there is satisfying freshness. The finish delivers pleasing black pepper and allspice tinged notes that linger in the mouth. Drink now and over the next decade. Tasted at the château.