In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1990 Latour is a First Growth intent on giving as much pleasure as ‘vinously’ possible. Undeniably, there is quite a bit of brettanomyces on the nose that renders this the most animally and feral of Château Latour wines in recent years and yet you cannot help but fall for its almost garish charms. Underneath lie scents of warm gravel, fennel, oregano and leather that are totally seductive. The palate translates the richness of the vintage although it has decayed, frayed at the seams a little in recent years. This is sumptuous Latour, a devil-may-care Latour, a 1990 that wears it heart on its sleeve, armed with a gorgeous truffle-tinged, almost animally finish that is not round but “spherical”. There are probably few Latour wines as enjoyable this, even if it is certainly not faultless. Tasted at the International Business & Wine Latour dinner at Ten Trinity.