2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 700-$2,300) Bright medium ruby. Knockout nose combines black- and redcurrant, minerals, graphite, licorice and lavender. Wonderfully suave and seamless, but with great purity and precision of flavor and terrific inner-palate perfume and lift. This dances over every square millimeter of the palate. Almost painfully young today, with an impression of fresh acidity serving to intensify the wine’s flavors. About as austere a wine as I tasted from this vintage in April and yet it’s not hard. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and a whiplash of minerally perfume. I’d forget about this one for about 15 years.