Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Inky-ruby. Very pure, ripe blackberry and blackcurrant on the nose, with hints of fresh violet, minerals and cured tobacco. The sweet dark berry and candied black cherry flavors display impressive depth and lingering minerality, but the building, palate-coating tannins are tough going today. Finishes with excellent persistence, but this wine left me scrambling for something to eat. Best today on the profound, perfumed nose, this is a very impressive, serious wine. But as with other wines from Catherine Pere-Verge’s stable this year (witness Le Gay and Montviel), I found it a little too extracted for my taste, although considerably less so than those two. I am normally a huge fan of La Violette, which is often one of the purest and daintiest expressions of Pomerol (certainly, its terroir is arguably among the very best of the appellation), so it may well be that all the 2010 needs is time in the bottle to resolve its fierce tannic shroud. In that case, my score will look ungenerous.