Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 1998 Clos de Tart Grand Cru puts in a rather disappointing performance. At 20 years of age, it shows some bricking on the rim. The bouquet starts off well, offering generous red berry fruit and a touch of menthol, but with aeration it develops a more herbaceous character and then an element that is almost fecal. The palate is medium-bodied and more cohesive than the aromatics, delivering fine tannin and notes of candied orange peel filtered through the red berry fruit. It lacks some finesse and shows just a touch of VA on the finish. Is there also a touch of brettanomyces here? This should be better. Tasted at the Clos de Tart vertical at Ten Trinity in London.