On the Tuscan Coast: New Releases (Oct 2015)

The 2013 Ornellaia Bianco, a Sauvignon/Viognier blend that spent a year in barrel, is an addition to the range and the estate’s most ambitious white wine to date. A host of lemon peel, white flowers, mint and slate are all beautifully delineated and totally vivid as this dazzling, crystalline white shows off its translucent energy. The Graves-inflected finish leaves a lasting impression. As good as the 2013 Bianco is – and it is terrific – its price is deeply troubling. Over the years, Ornellaia and Masseto have built impressive track records. As a result the prestige and price of the wines has gradually risen over time. That is understandable. But Tenuta dell’Ornellaia has no track record when it comes to making world-class whites. Pricing the Bianco in its first vintage inline with Ornellaia is risky, leaves no margin for error and is a hostile move towards the consumer.