South Africa’s Ongoing Wine Revolution (Jun 2015)

(a wine made for aging; the 1873 Lafite-Rothschild is our benchmark, noted winemaker Luke O’Cuinneagain with a straight face): Medium ruby-red. Knockout nose combines deep aromas of blackcurrant, boysenberry, licorice, violet and minerals. Wonderfully suave and silky, with a captivating graphite underpinning to the dark fruit and violet flavors. Aged in 100% new oak, mostly Taransaud barrels. Winemaker O’Cuinneagain noted that 2011 was an uneven growing season, with cool spells and heat spikes, but this wine is utterly seamless. O’Cuinneagain also opened the 2009 and 2008 bottlings for me to retaste. The 2008, a blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Petit Verdot, showed a dark ruby-red color, with lovely floral aromas of dark berries, spices and bitter chocolate, plus a whiff of meat that reminded me of a Pauillac. The palate offers explosive, classically dry dark fruit flavors and a three-dimensional texture. At once rich and dry, this beauty finishes with suave tannins and outstanding lingering perfume. While the wine can give great pleasure if it’s allowed to evolve in a decanter, it’s progressing very slowly and should gain in nuance for another 10 to 12 years. I rated it 93 points. The 2009 showed a darker ruby-red color and was very closed on the nose, hinting at dark berries and licorice. It boasts sweet fruit but in comparison to the exhilarating 2008 seems mute, even a bit flat. Finishes with serious, dusty, palate-saturating tannins that cannot hide the wine’s underlying sweetness. Seems to be passing through a sullen stage. 90(+)