1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Perfumed but shy nose hints at smoke and truffle. Then shockingly expressive in the mouth, with intensely spicy, musky raspberry and wild strawberry flavors. Really fills the mouth. Has more than enough fruit to support its powerful underlying structure. The longest of these ’95s by far to this point; tannins are substantial but supple. A beautifully balanced wine that currently rather open-armed, in the words of de Villaine, but I expect it to go into a shell soon that may last several years.