2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Medium red. Distinctly darker on the nose than the RSV, offering scents of blackberry, boysenberry, violet, smoky minerals and spicy oak. Sappy, saline, broad and classically dry; distinctly thicker and more backward than the RSV, with its soil character currently dominating its primary fruits. Superb volume here but rather uncompromising today; this wine will need a long time to emerge from its shell. Finishes with hints of chocolate and mint. The RSV shows more oaky sweetness but this wine is more profound. (Incidentally, when I tasted the 2014s from bottle at Hudelot-Noëllat in late 2015, this wine showed more high-toned lift and early personality than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, but then Charles van Canneyt has been telling me for years that these two grand crus are constantly changing their position in the cellar during their élevage.