Priceless: Roumier Bonnes-Mares 1945 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

After the perplexing 2011, the 2012 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru restores order – an exemplary wine. The bouquet is still backward, attesting that this Grand Cru deserves a decade in bottle, yet the oak is beautifully assimilated and the terroir really comes through. The palate is knitted together by filigree tannin that almost disguise the intensity of this wines, but the sustained finish leaves you in no doubt that you are in the presence of one of Christophe Roumier’s finest recent vintages. Just be patient. Tasted at dinner in Beaune.