Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Full yellow. Rather exotic aromas of pineapple, marzipan and toast. Fat, thick and dry, with the marzipan quality carrying through on the palate. More ripe apple and pear than stone or citrus fruits here. Finishes chewy and a bit tannic and aggressive, with a suggestion of imperfect skins and surmaturité. This wine has evolved quickly and is rather awkward today; I’m not sure where it can go with further aging. Lacks real depth and sweetness. The estate’s 2006s also finished with higher than normal levels of residual sugar, as some rot may have resulted in higher levels of unfermentable sugar in the grapes. This wine has been cited for premox issues. (14% alcohol; 3.29 pH; the harvest, which began on September 20, was complicated by rain showers that withered the grapes and eventually turned them blue, according to Morandière, although he noted that the estate’s Chevalier-Montrachet was picked before just before a damaging thunderstorm)