Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(completely destemmed and aged in one-third new oak; bottled in March, along with the sold-out premier cru, which I did not have a chance to taste, and the Clos des Lambrays): Moderately saturated medium red. Very ripe but not roasted on the nose, with its raspberry fruit complicated by spices and sexy earth tones, plus a slightly metallic whiff of cassis bud reduction. Juicy, spicy and savory but still a bit youthfully imploded for village wine. At once less sweet and less floral than the 2016 version, but if that wine is more fun, this one is deeper. Finishes with a firm tannic spine.