New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

(80% chardonnay and 20% pinot noir, from a single parcel in the premier cru Rilly la Montagne; disgorged May, 2010): Vivid gold. Intensely perfumed, mineral-driven nose displays pit fruits, honeysuckle, anise, clove, vanilla bean and marzipan. On the palate, suave, perfumed lemon, peach and chalky mineral flavors put on weight with air. The mineral quality gains power with air and carries through the very long finish, which strongly echoes the anise and vanilla notes. As complex as this Champagne is right now, it appears to be built to age.