The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino (Jan 2023)

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is remarkably pretty, with an attractive mix of bright cherry and strawberry complemented by a dusting of sweet cinnamon spice. This splashes across the palate, propelled and lifted by juicy acidity, as tart red berries add tension, and a salty flourish of minerality evolves toward the close. If there is one thing I can hold against the 2012, it’s the modestly clipped finale, where licorice tones and the slightest hint of heat linger on. That said, when paired with the right meal, this spunky and mature Brunello will have a lot of fans.