Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2015 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a scintillating wine – always has been. Dark cherries and still that hint of bergamot on the nose that shimmers with youthful delight, perfectly in tune with the oak. Perhaps a little more mineralité than I recall. It oddly seems to tighten up with aeration instead of opening! The palate is medium-bodied with pointed acidity that imparts plenty of tension, slightly granular in texture, and almost linear with a hint of black olive compote towards the bitter-edged finish. Superb. Tasted at Maison de Colombier in Beaune.