Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Soil-inflected aromas of toffee, nuts, white chocolate, menthol and iodine. Superconcentrated, dense and ripe; seems like a full dosage, but the impression of sweetness may be partly due to the wine’s thick extract and solidity. Extraordinarily tactile, chewy Champagne that will need several years to harmonize and may ultimately merit a score in the mid-90s. Today, this is heavier and richer than the 1993 was two years ago, no surprise given the styles of these two vintages.