Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

Purity of fruit is the standout as the 2016 Sangiovese blossoms in the glass. This is classic in every sense of the word, with violet and rose florals, dried strawberries, hints of blood orange and crushed rocks. It’s sleek and textural, yet not weighty, instead impressing with its nervous acidity, as tart red berries and a stern minerality create a savory sensation while taking on inner violet tones toward the close. There’s a bitter tug of tannin and cheek-puckering austerity that reminds you that the 2016 is still in its infancy; however, through it all, a sour hint of citrus maintains wonderful freshness. The 2016 will require patience, and a lot of it, but the potential here is off the charts.