2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru is 100% whole bunch and matured in 50% new oak. Somehow the aromatics do not quite click into gear and need a lot of coaxing before blackberry, raspberry and white pepper scents begin to appear, followed later by a splash of iodine. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and well-judged acidity. This feels very cohesive, and the harmonious, lightly peppered finish fans out as a Grand Cru ought to. It needs some bottle age to really meld together, but it will certainly be worth waiting for.