Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

This bottle of 1967 Yquem was poured following a Petrus vertical at Hide restaurant alongside the 1893. Very concentrated grapes were picked from 26 September to 26 October. It has a wonderful bouquet, entrancing, scents of dried honey, crème brûlée, caramelised pear, fresh figs and quince bursting from the glass with fabulous delineation. Almost Barsac-like in style. The palate is lightly-spiced on the entry with tangy tangerine and marmalade notes, fig and quince, viscous and mouth-coating. This is a decadent and multi-dimensional Yquem that shows no signs of slowing down as it passes its fifth decade. Probably the best of around half-a-dozen bottles tasted over the years.