Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(76% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, and 9% cabernet franc; ph 3.65; IPT 70; 13.4% alcohol; 65% new oak) Purple ruby. Initially closed nose opens slowly with air to reveal blackcurrant, blueberry, tobacco and minerals. Then remarkably supple and pliant in the mouth, with extremely sweet red and black fruit flavors complicated by graphite, tobacco and minerals. The youthful, building tannins start silky-smooth, then become a bit aggressive on the long, complex finish. Compared to Latour, whose vineyards lie practically next door, this has a much softer texture and is very much Saint-Julien, though over time it may toughen up and shut down. This wine reminded me of the excellent ’66, but despite such high praise, I’m not sure it’s that much better than the excellent ’08 made here. Las Cases’s reputation is built on some of Bordeaux’s finest cabernet sauvignon of all, but Delon told me that he felt it needed a touch more merlot than usual in the final blend this year. While normally it can do with very little merlot, not this year, said Delon. The merlot adds a touch of charm that is lovely.