La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a transitional wine in terms of the changeover from Jacques Desvauges to former Château Grillet winemaker Alessandro Noli following its acquisition by Groupe Artémis. It has a mélange of red and black fruit on the nose, the 55% whole bunch imparting scents of black pepper, damp undergrowth and a shavings of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with good grip on the entry. Quite compact at the moment, this obviously requires several years in bottle. But there is admirable freshness and tension; peppery towards the finish that feels just a touch austere and stern at the moment due to the robust, assertive tannins. That should soften with time, though comparing the two vintages side-by-side, I feel that the 2019 is endowed with more sophistication.