Vinous Table: Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy (Dec 2014)

The “Bollito not boiled” is one of Bottura’s classic dishes (seven different cuts of beef slowly cooked—for 36 hours—at a lower-than-usual temperature), while the “Beautiful, psychedelic…” veal creation is a far more modern Pollock-esque take on meat, but both match splendidly with Chave’s heavenly 1997 Hermitage Rouge. I’m not much for extremely rich, almost fat reds (and ’97 pushed the envelope) but this wine has aged magnificently and comes across as plush yet graceful, a neat trick. Stylishly supple and glyceral, it overpowers neither the veal nor the bollito.