Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Full yellow with a gold tinge. Very ripe aromas of dried yellow stone fruits, pineapple and chalky minerality. Then round, silky and seamless, offering lovely integrated acidity but relying even more on its minerality for balance (Morandière described this wine as a less extreme version of the 2015). At once tactile and smooth but still backward, offering mouthfilling flavors of apricot, citrus fruits and acacia flower that gained in depth as the wine took on oxygen. A very rich style but without any easy sweetness, this wine may well enjoy a 30-year lifespan. (13.7% alcohol; 3.22 pH; the harvest began on September 16 but the Chevalier-Montrachet came in on the 20th after a few days with a north wind that concentrated sugars and acids; still, this was a drought year with a blockage of maturity, according to Brice de la Morandière)