2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(just a bit of frost here; these heavily virused vines planted in the 1950s routinely produce tiny grapes, according to Coche): Lively aromas of lime, lemon and crushed stone. At once dense and penetrating, conveying terrific concentration and inner-mouth tension. (Coche told me he considers this wine to be almost at the level of the unfrosted vineyards in 2016.) This dynamic Genevrières communicates a strong impression of dry extract and finishes with terrific lift and slowly mounting floral perfume. Lay it down for at least five or six years.