Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2002 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is just a tiny bit smudged on the nose, but it rectifies that with aeration, offering disarming brambly red fruit, bergamot and potpourri scents, just a slight ferrous tincture in the background. The palate is fine-boned with pure red fruit, structured and slightly disjointed initially. Yet it coheres magnificently in the glass, so smooth. I was shocked when the vintage was revealed because this bottle suggests a very slow evolution. Wonderful. Tasted blind at the Wallace brothers’ Xmas dinner.